Have you ever taken a deep breath and opened your closet, having to choose between a couple of suits that always feel off? Shoulders, pants, everything seems to never fit exactly how you wish. That’s ok. Most men choose an off-the-rack suit and hope it will work. Even if it is close, there is a huge difference between a suit that fits properly and one that doesn’t, and it is worth it.
Custom-tailored suits aren’t just for weddings and formal events anymore, and in fact, they are becoming a popular choice for workers in Dallas. No matter if you’re closing a deal in the Arts District, looking sharp for a charity gala in Highland Park, or just looking for a stylish suit to wear to Sunday brunch, a properly fitting suit will have a big impact.
In this article, we will go over why custom-tailored suits are worth your investment. More and more men are choosing custom suits over off-the-rack, and once you realize the difference you’ll never go back, and you won’t regret it.
Why Custom Fitted Suits Are Always Better Than Off-the-Rack
Let’s take a minute to be real. If you walk into a department store and go to the men’s suit section, you’ll see many suits with tags like “38 Regular” and “42 Long.” What these tags don’t tell you is that these sizes are based on the assumption that your body has standard proportions. Spoiler alert– no one’s body is “standard”.
Tailoring To You
A tailored suit isn’t built around the body of an “average” guy, it is built around your body. This means:
Shoulders that actually align with your frame (no one wants drop shoulders or pinching around the shoulders).
Sleeves that stop at the wrist and show the perfect amount of cuff.
A jacket that follows the natural lines of your torso with no bunched up excess fabric.
Pants that stop at your shoes and have the right amount of fabric on the bottom, whether it’s a no-break or a slight break.
I’ve seen many people go from a big improvement to an extreme transformation once they stopped wearing off-the-rack suits and started wearing custom tailored suits. Each combination of measurements and construction is unique to you. There’s a big difference. It’s not magic, it’s just physics.
It’s All About Quality
When purchasing your suit online or going to a chain store, there is probably going to be fused construction, which is a cheaper way to manufacture a suit by just glueing the inner parts of the suit together. If a suit is made like this, know that it will not be breathable, and will lose shape just like a common New Year’s resolution.
When a suit is handcrafted by a tailor, there is always going to be a construction made of canvas. In this construction, there are layers of horsehair canvas that are sewn, not glued, into the jacket so that it can adjust to your body over time. That way you can breathe and feel comfy while and walking around the suit.
Choosing the Fabric: The Most Important Part of the Suit
All these things are impacted by your suit’s fabric is, and some of those things can be a huge difference when you are stuck in the never-ending Dallas summer.
Wool: The Best Fabric for Every Season
Top quality suits almost always have wool in them, because wool is a champion when it comes to fabric. Wool fibers can be woven into other kinds of clothes like cotton, lycra, or polyester. But not every wool is the same. There is a new type of wool coming into the market every year. We’ve got super 100s, 120s, or 150s, and those are all better and more expensive the higher they get.
In the Dallas area, I suggest Super 110s to Super 130s range. In the summer, you can survive the August meetings without melting, and the suit holds up with regular wear. This range between the 3 S’s is perfect mix of comfort, durability, and breathability.
Wool-silk blends, especially for special occasions, are worth considering. Silk is the proverbial cherry on the top, as it wonderfully feels and looks great in photos with sheen. Tropical wool is the go-to for summer events as well as wool-linen blends. Although linen does wrinkle, which is totally okay and is apart of the charm. It’s lighter and more breathable.
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The Dallas Advantage: Why Location Matters
Suit culture in Dallas is better than anywhere else. It’s not LA, where it’s practically suitless and not New York, where it’s just navy and charcoal. Dallas lies in the middle where business culture is strong, and we have a great mix of personality to go with it.
Climate Considerations
It’s hot in Texas. Like, really hot. This is where working with a knowledgeable Dallas suit shop makes all the difference. From May to September, you need suit that can handle the summer heat, and humidity without looking like you slept 12 hours in it.
They realize you might have an 8 am meeting after making a 95 degree walk from a meeting. They understand which fabrics breathe and what linings will keep you cooler. There are vendors (like Donmoprhy) that help fit Dallas professionals to get that perfect combination of looking good and being comfortable.
Style Preferences in the Metroplex
Dallas men enjoy quality and a little bit of mother nature and a flashy look. Lighter colors with textured fabrics and modern cuts are more common here than in more conservative places. Business formal is still practiced, but there is ample opportunity to be creative with your look.
How to Find Your Perfect Tailored Suit
So you’re sold on the idea of custom tailoring. Now what? The process is more clear than you might think.
Step One: Look at Some Styles
Before going to any store, look on Pinterest or Instagram for some styles you like. Then save some photos to your phone for reference. Consider lapel width (slim, standard, or wide), number of buttons (one, two, or three), fit (slim, modern, or classic), and other details like peak versus notch lapels, ticket pockets, or surgeon’s cuffs. Having reference photos will help your tailor understand exactly what you want. It’s like going to a hairstylist and showing them a photo instead of just saying ‘kind of shaggy but professional.’
Step Two: Budget Realistically
I’m going to say some harsh truths: quality tailored suits aren’t cheap, but you also won’t have to mortgage your house to buy one. A tailored suit will set you back anywhere from $800 to $3000 or more, depending on what fabric you decide to go with and how the suit is built.
A tailor suit is a better investment than purchasing several off-the-rack suits. For example, if you buy three $400 off-the-rack suits over 5 years, you’ve already spent $1200, on a suit that’s just going to fit poorly and won’t really make you feel confident. One tailored suit for $1200 is going to last much longer, and it’s going to fit your body much better, making you feel really good every time you wear it.
Step Three: The Fitting Steps
This is where the magic happens! Then they get started with the tailoring process with even more modifications. A tailor will take upwards of 20 measurements. 20! Though some of them could be the exact same. They’re not just measuring your chest and waist. They’re measuring the slope of your shoulders and how long your back is, the angle of your arms, and even the distance taken from your neck to your chair. Isn’t that crazy?
Most custom suit processes work with the client at least one fitting, and sometimes two! This is not just an inconvenience, this is essential to getting the right fit. During the fittings, make sure to wear the same shoes and dress shirt that you will be wearing with the suit. During the fitting, make sure to stand up and stay relaxed. If something feels a little off then make sure to tell them. Good tailors understand that even the smallest details matter, and they want you to be thrilled with the outcome, not just satisfied.
Buying Online vs. Buying In Store
You might be asking yourself, “Why not just order suits online, then I am done!”. Sure, but should you, though?
When it is Appropriate to Online Shop
Online shopping for a suit makes sense if you:
Already have your measurements from a tailoring experience, or order a suit.
Have a stble body type that aligns with the company’s size chart.
Mind spending the effort to do a return.
Shop from a company with solid return policies.
Made to order suits can work if it is your second suit, and you need to know your tailoring preferences. But for your first, I highly suggest coming in.
Positives of Buying In Store
There is something that cannot be replaced when it comes to in-person shopping vs. online shopping, and that is the feel of the fabric and weight of it. That wool pants might look right on the screen, but in the sun, is it a charcoal brown or a charcoal blue?
In addition, if you buy suits from a store for a long period, they will know your style, body shape, and size. Vendors like Deluxe, tailors in Dallas, should form partnerships, and not just be viewed as a store selling a suit.
Mistakes To Avoid When Getting A Tailored Suit
Mistakes happen no matter how much planning and thought goes into getting a custom suit. These are some of the mistakes I see most often.
Trendy Looks
Lapels that are super slim and pants that are skinny are very trendy right now. But not for long. They are not a good long-term style. Go for a classic, timeless style that should last you for a decade or more. Get trendy looks for your 3rd or 4th suit once you have a good collection.
Your Actual Lifestyle
Seriously think about how you actually spend your time. Do you rarely attend events that require wearing a suit? I assume you wouldn’t want a three piece wool suit that is very formal and unpractical. But if you are in finance and need to wear suits every day, make sure to have many colors that are easy to mix and match.
Shoes and Accessories
A custom suit looks great. Make sure to have some good shoes and a good belt to match. Good shoes should cost about 20–25% of how much the suit is. A two thousand dollar suit with 50 dollar shoes looks super bad. Like a 500 dollar outfit level bad.
Taking Care of Your Suit
You need to take care of investments, and a tailored suit is no different. Here’s what you can do to care for it:
After you wear your suit:
Dust and debris can be removed by brushing your suit with a special garment brush.
Please hang it on a wooden coat hanger (do not use wire hangers ever).
You need to take it out and hang it for 24 hours before putting it in a closet.
For general care:
You don’t need to dry clean your suit every single time (only do it 2–3 times a season that is the maximum).
If you can, use steam to get wrinkles out instead of using a regular iron.
You should have multiple suits and don’t wear the same suit 2 days in a row.
For storing your suits:
If you plan on storing your suit long term, use breathable garment bags.
Keep the stored suits in a dry and cool place to go along with no direct sunlight.
Consider using cedar blocks to keep moths away.
If you take care of your tailored suit, it will last for many years. Your suit will be in great condition for years to come. Most guys I know have suits that were made over 10 years ago and the suits still look better than what you can get off the rack.
Getting More Suits
Having one suit is a good start, but if you have 3–5 suits you get way more versatility. Here is the order you should buy them in if you want to have a more tailored wardrobe.
Wool Suit 1 — Navy
You need to get this suit first. It is your base suit. You can wear it for interviews, weddings, funerals, business meetings and any other event that requires you to dress up. It’s the most useful suit you can have.
Suit #2: Charcoal Gray
Having a darker gray option is a must; it is professional looking and allows for a little variety. Wear it with brown shoes to keep it a little softer or go for black shoes to keep it looking as professional as possible.
Suit #3: Light Gray or Mid-Gray
This is the start of depth. A light gray suit is perfect for events in the spring and summer, daytime weddings, and lowkey business settings.
Suit #4: Textured or Patterned
This is where we can start to add some personality. Check, herringbone, or glen plaid are good options to consider. We can keep it classy to fit all types of events, and now we can make it fun.
Suit #5: Seasonal or Special Occasion
Maybe a linen suit for summer, or a tweed for the fall. This might even be where your lifestyle calls for a tux.
The Modern Gentleman’s Approach to Suiting
What I learned after years of watching the professionals here in Dallas from a distance is that confidence trumps perfection, and that suits should make you feel your best self.
The goal is to feel ready for whatever the day ahead of you is, not when you are fictional dress up like you are in a costume.
So that’s the main difference between off the rack and customized suits. Its beyond just a photoshoot. You’ll have the complete feeling of comfort and the confidence that can only be attained when a suit is adjusted to the individual’s form and physique. People can just tell when a suit fits properly and when it doesn’t. It’s almost as if your body takes on a different form. You stand with a different posture. You make better eye contact with people. You really just embody the presence of someone who is important and has a lot on their plate. It’s a feeling of novelty and people recognize that.
Where Dallas Meets Style: What You Should Do Next
Diffidence to properly fitted suits? Here’s your step by step guide.
Check out the competition: thoroughly examine suit shops within the Dallas area. Look for someone whose work is pleasing to you and has good reviews. Donmorphy has a good reputation around Dallas because he understands the professionals and what a suit should look like.
Book a consultation: Many Tailors will have free consultations. Use your time to ask them about their process, keep note of the different fabric suits, and just try and see if their style fits with your own.
Start small: Just get one suit to start. You’ll be able to see how their process works and you will have a good idea of what your budget be for the future.
Your first custom suit might seem a bit scary at first, but just know that your measurements and their craftsmanship are going to end up really working out. You just gotta trust the process.
Wrapping it Up
Men’s custom tailored suits are not just for the rich and style crazy. It’s for the folks that get it. They know how they present themselves impacts how folks perceive and treat them. It even impacts how they feel about themselves.
Custom suits even make perfect sense for those just starting their business careers. There is so much to be gained by not having to deal with off-the-rack suits. Only custom suits fit you and your life while showing off your personal style and giving you a suit you can confidently wear to any occasion.
Dallas has plenty of options for suits. You can get a suit from a low end store or you can go to a custom store. Keep in mind that you need to find the right balance of quality, service, and price, and that there is no rush. The best suit is the one you can wear without feeling like you’re wearing a suit at all. Look your best in the suit that is waiting for you.
