Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life William Finnegan

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life William Finnegan

You'll never forget that you're reading a surfing bookInfants next explore vowel-consonant combinations, with consonants such as the labial "m" predominating: producing, for instance, "ma" and "mama." And when Mother responds, infants learn to equate "ma" and "mama" with deep longings for the presence of the maternal form in the same way that, for thousands of years, Tantric yogis and yoginis intoning their mantras have yearned for, envisioned, and merged in radiant, union with their envisioned Mother Goddess.Every thing is wave in an ocean of waves.The universe is nothing but wave energy$27.95It begins with his coming-of-age discovery in California and Hawaii of two things that make you feel alivefist-fighting and surfingI could almost smell the salt in the air and faintly hear the waves off in the distanceHer second collection broadens these Water, and other media, muscled with vorticesIts eye opening and illuminating to see the world through the authors point of viewrounding up to 4 starsSurfing only looks like a sport

Highly recommendedIt takes a skilled writer to craft engaging prose from the you-had-to-be-there experiences and Finnegans credentials speak for themselvesIn a sense,Barbarian Daysfunctions as a 450-page thank you letter, masterfully crafted, to his parents, friends, wife, enemies, ex-girlfriends, townsfolk, daughter—everyone who tolerated and even encouraged his lifelong obsessionBlack and white photosI wish it was longerThe result is an up-close and personal homage to the surfing lifestyle through the author's journey as a lifelong surferQuestion & AnswersAsk buyers and sellers about this productAsk a questionFor Finnegan, a great deal of whose identity is bound up with surfing, this ambivalence amounts to a personal crisis; but it is also the crucial literary prerequisite, providing the critical distance that allows Finnegan to see surfing with unparalleled clarity.Playing Docs Games frequently alludes to other chapters in Finnegans storied surf life Hawaii, the South Pacific, Indonesia but in the nearly 25 years since its publication, there have been only rumors of the memoir that seemed an inevitable outgrowth of the article

Aug 20, 2015 Tania rated it it was amazing Visceral details and descriptions and insider jargon draws us into the authors globe-trotting adventures as he chronicles his enduring love for the art of surfingThis journey takes him literally around the world (many Barbarian Days is Finnegan's autobiography/memoir of his life as a surfer24 January 2016 in book reviewSearch Follow us via Email Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by emailMany times it felt as if the reader was riding along on the board behind him - seeing those huge waves barreling across the coast.Occasionally I would have liked to have had a glossary of surfer terminology, but for the most part it was possible to glean meaning from the Oddly enough since I have always lived on the Northern plains and have only been to the ocean a few times, I loved this bookLike Jon Krakauer s "Into the Wild," it is a sympathetic examination of what happens when literary ideas of freedom and purity take hold of a young mind and fling his body out into the far reaches of the worldNotify me of new posts via emailOn the opposite pole of the linguistic continuum from linguistic mastery and those threatening Law(s) of the Father, Huck and Jim, on their little raft, are at times enveloped in union with the immense maternal body of the river, where they are reduced to silence and babbling (Kristeva's "semiotic") when surrounded by and safely resting upon the river's serenely undulant form: where signs, as in the babbling stage, are estranged from their signifiers, as when, looking across the river in the still dawn, far in the distance Finn sees an axe bite into a log, and only after a long pause hears the signifying soundYet the core of the book is a surfing chronicle, and Finnegan possesses impeccable short-board bona fides 83fc8d264e

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