Paint Coatings for Each Job

The right type of coating is essential. If you select the wrong paint, it won't matter how much effort and money you may spend on your job. Too many flawlessly great paint projects deteriorate quickly because the wrong primer and paint were used.

A dependable guideline is to match the existing finish. If you are painting or staining on top of latex paint, recoat with latex. You could have a myriad of choices if the material is uncoated, nevertheless, you still need to consider weather, maintenance, and strength to determine the best coating for the work.

Primers Are an Exciting Paint Product

Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It establishes how well the finish is protected and how long the paint can last. Knowing when to use primers screws up painters about nearly as much as which primers to utilize. Basically, you need to use a primer when you are coating a fresh or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more even. About the only real time you don't need to prime is when you're recoating with the same paint and finish over a sound paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.

To make sure of compatibility, choose a product that's part of a paint system. By paint system I mean a primer and top layer distributed by the same company. The labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coatings for various materials and conditions. Unless you want to deal with reading the fine print, ask to read the spec, or data sheet, on a specific primer. In case a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have more information than you will ever need and you might need help translating a few of the terms and specifications.

Primers form an even base for the top coatings by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all or any types of bare areas. Without first priming a new or reconditioned surface, you'll find that the top finish ends up flaking off much earlier than you would expect. Even though you can use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the error of thinking that primers are optional, or can be produced out of diluted paint.

Usually in one coat most primers smooth out surfaces and places which have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will require a second layer of primer to ensure a smooth undercoat, but often one is enough. The house pictured below serves as an exemplory case of a project where two layers of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to provide it an uniform base for the top coats. Some climates almost demand another layer of primer. I've heard of one contractor in Florida who always double primes to guarantee that his jobs last. In the event that you live near to salt water, I recommend that you consider doing the same.

Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trimming. You might feel that a primer would smooth a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed portion of wood trim it always feels abrasive. That's because primer causes out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for the top. (Here is a tip: In the event that you tint your primer the color of the finish coat, you can actually speed up the painting process by lowering the amount of top layers needed. Tinting is mostly used for color changes, although it's also handy for surfaces like bare drywall.)

How to Prime Interior Wall Surfaces and Ceilings

I would recommend using latex primers whenever we can. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior problem areas, including the laundry room and bath, that require a good sealant and a water resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter parts of the home, although there are great latex primers that seal equally well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the bedrooms, living room, and closets. I usually spray a latex primer on new construction because new properties have enough vapor barriers. Also, I can paint an oil-based top coat over latex primer.

Older houses require room-by-room decisions on what primer to work with. If the house doesn't have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will need a primer that seals the walls and keeps moisture from getting between the surface and the paint.

Latex stain blockers and sealers could be the answer to priming wet rooms in the house. These quick drying primers help condition areas with water, cigarette smoke, and tannin spots, plus they can be recoated very quickly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a great latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all the benefits of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also functions as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. In case your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it'll maintain a consistant sheen over primer. You could guarantee compatibility by utilizing a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.

When it comes to walls, remember that plaster and drywall are different. Plaster is highly alkaline, specially when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it isn't properly sealed. There are various primers you can use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top coating and finish that you've planned.

Drywall is much less alkaline than plaster. I usually prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coats will be an oil-based paint, in which case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I know that we now have perfectly good latex primers for any type of top layer, but old behaviors are hard to break.) When painting new drywall, I'll sometimes add joint compound to the primer for just a little texture. Mixed with primer, joint compound also helps even out over any sanding marks or roughness.

Primers For Interior Wood

When selecting primer, you should think about the nature and condition of the surface, the kind of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the top coats, and the sort of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).

Most often I prime interior wood trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost dampness in older wood. There's also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, like the high moisture common in restrooms and kitchens, may call for a breathable latex primer if you cannot prime all around the wood. When you can completely prime the wood before it is attached in place, an alkyd primer will protect the majority of the wood trim from moisture. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a professional if your project has many different variables

Primers For Exterior Applications

Even though I prefer latex paint for the outside, I still would prefer to use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do an improved job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the home does not have any major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good shape (which often means that it's new), especially if I had access to the siding and trim before it goes on. It's always better to seal all around the wood (however, not the ends) to provide each piece its own vapor barrier.

New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long time, even if the timber has air-dried for months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a light detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are quite porous, so you may need to wait a day or two to let them dry. There's a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the surface, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coats of any alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the top coatings. Any staining that occurs after that can usually be washed off with special timber cleaners.

Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a particular challenge. Having less grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to bond to. In case the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to eliminate all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially designed hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When mixed with a top layer, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other high quality sealers also work well on aluminum or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.

Priming Solution For Metal Applications

Every metallic should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, so the primer gets thorough contact with the area. Most metal surfaces can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes arrive from the factory with a stabilizer that may be tough to remove, and may need more than just thinner. Check with your paint store if you want to be certain a primer will work on new galvanized steel surfaces.

A couple of primers for every type of metal. Ferrous metals, manufactured from iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is almost impossible to totally remove unless you sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can stay that will grow back again under an unsealed surface or the incorrect primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the outer layer from exposure to air. Some companies make reference to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller projects like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've experienced good luck using.

Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be covered with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a particular primer for new galvanized steel. Older galvanized steel can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned previously.

Much like any finish, the additional time the primer has to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much in any way and stay right where they're painted, for good or for bad. A clean surface is particularly important when using an instant drying primer. Note that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while other companies suggest against using any sort of solvent cleaner. Scan the directions carefully.

A vintage technique that still is effective for cleaning new or old metals is washing the surface with a one-to-one mixture of vinegar and water. Vinegar can be an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a metal material if blended at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It provides surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is handy for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be utilized to clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will damage the galvanizing.

Method For Priming Masonry

Be it inside or out, masonry usually needs a primer or sealer that will resist water and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out as time passes, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The cause of the efflorescence, usually moisture, must be resolved for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry must cure for 3 months before you apply primer and paint it, especially if it is highly alkaline, like stucco.

Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it can be applied on masonry that is seven days old. Stucco, which is actually colored mortar and full of lime, is a great surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints also has a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's provided for oil-based paint. You also can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top overcoat, but it is important that you utilize latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these situations I've had good luck adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I recommend it for most masonry applications.

Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only method to speed up the curing time of concrete. You can still etch if you are so inclined, although if I never see another container of muriatic acid, that would be just fine. (If it etches cement, imagine how well it etches epidermis!) Etching takes a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, remember a respirator, especially when you blend the acid with the water. Important: Add the acid to the water, not the other way around. If you add water to acid it will splash and burn up anything it contacts. And mix it in the correct ratio, usually 1 to 3. Make sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.

Reconditioning older, peeling concrete floors can be considered a chore. It's best to keep them well maintained and recoat them regularly, before they need to be completely redone. Concrete flooring surfaces in really bad condition should be sandblasted, or you may use a new system called Peel-Away that makes prepping masonry a little easier (it's still no picnic). If the surface is in good shape, prep the surface and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.

For new concrete floors, I recommend a cement stain made by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My preference is the water based stain, since silicon is a wax that eventually will wash off. Concrete stain penetrates and seals without requiring scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading much better than a top covering like latex.

Older, pre-painted concrete floors have to be repainted with an identical top coating, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top coat is best applied over a typical concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also is effective. An oil-based top overcoat requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I'd add Penetrol to the primer for a longer lasting bond.

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