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After the boards have adjusted, select the straightest ones for the first 2 rows. Prepare Your Subfloor Eliminate old flooring and any residue. Eliminate carpet strips and baseboards. Vacuum. Old flooring materials may be made from asbestos. If you're unsure, speak with an expert. Install the Boards The very first and last rows of the room have to be nailed through the face of the board.
If you're not using a floor covering nailer, drill 1/32-inch size holes 1/2-inch from the grooved edge to prevent splitting. Lay the very first board on the line you snapped, groove toward wall. Set -inch spacers for the expansion space along the length and at the end between the board and the wall.
Tap the next board in location using a tapping block and mallet. Nail in place. Countersink all the nails. When you get to completion, cut the board to fit (face side up on the saw), remembering to leave the -inch growth space. Now, blind nail at a 45-degree angle along the tongue edge at every flooring joist down the length of the row.
Continue down the row, remembering to stagger the joints by a minimum of 6 inches. When View Details is done, blind nail in location. Continue installing the rest of the boards, remembering to stagger the joints, maintain the growth gaps, and mix boards from various boxes. At this point, you'll have the room to use a flooring nailer.
Change the air pressure on the nailer if essential, to countersink the nails. Use a jigsaw to cut around any vents or jogs, like a fireplace hearth, to fit the boards. Face-nail the last two rows along the tongue side. You won't have the room to continue using the flooring nailer, so remember to drill 1/32-inch diameter pilot holes, inch from the edge, to avoid splitting.
Remember to leave the -inch growth space. Use a pull bar to click the boards together. Then, face nail. To complete, cut the excess underlayment and sand and stain if essential. Then, fill the nail holes with matching wood putty and change the baseboards and shoe molding to cover the expansion space.