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Half an hour later on, I glimpsed kittiwakes and guillemots on the cliffs at the RSPB reserve at Sumburgh Head, on the southern pointer of Mainland. Sadly, I was too late for the puffins. "They've usually passed early August," explained Hugh Harrop, of professional tour operator Shetland Wildlife. Nevertheless, by method of remuneration, I saw a lot of Shetland ponies.
Indeed, I counted more Shetland flags (an off-centre white cross on a blue background) than I did Scottish saltires. This distinct cultural heritage is renowned every Janauary in Up Helly Aa the Viking Fire Festival, a magnificent torchlit procession culminating in the burning of a Viking galley boat. scallowayhotel shows up in other methods too: for example, an advert for Norseman Pale Ale in the bar space window at the Queen's Hotel in Lerwick claims, rather implausibly, that it's "The option of Vikings!".
It is one of Scotland's crucial historical sites, including a Stone Age hut, an Iron Age broch and a Viking village that were revealed by vicious storms in the 19th century. As I walked around the amazing historical site by the water's edge, the wind in my hair, it was difficult not to be carried back to the past.
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The capital is also home to other places that appear in the drama, such as the Lounge, the liveliest place in the area on a Friday night, and Lerwick police headquarters. Douglas Henshall and Steven Robertson in Shetland the TV series/ BBC/ITV Studios, Gastronomically, Shetland has much to suggest it too, not least the seafood.
Close by, the Scalloway Museum brings to life the remarkable story of the "Shetland Bus" the fleet of small fishing boats that ferried resistance fighters to Nazi-occupied Norway during the war. Nevertheless, no trip to Shetland is complete without a check out to Frankie's Fish & Chips in Brae, Britain's most northern chippie and voted No 1 fish and chip shop in the UK in this year's National Fish & Chip Awards.
While you most likely will not see Jimmy Perez sporting a Sarah Lund-style jumper on screen, Shetland does produce distinguished knits. You can choose up a chunky, wool Fair Islander for around 120 at Anderson & Co, one of a handful of shops in Lerwick selling the standard patterned jumpers long knitted on Fair Isle, midway between Shetland and Orkney.
