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At Chagnaud's factory, on the borders of Vientiane, we were shown around his cluttered and eccentric laboratory, which is filled with odd and exotic oils and essences, and woods from deep in the Laotian forests. "I can't tell you in two sentences what all this indicates to me," Chagnaud stated.
Perfume is tremendously crucial to France. But primarily it's for individuals of Laos, to secure the forests from theft. Oud is this mystical, fantastic thing, magical and rare, however the only method to protect it is to gather it with excellent care and respect." Getting up at dawn the next day, we drove in Chagnaud's tanklike, dust-encrusted pickup a grueling 7 hours to the remote forest town of Kam Keut, not far from the Vietnamese border.
"An incredible thing," he said, "that something so wicked could ultimately produce something so lovely." En route we visited some of Chagnaud's backwoods oud distilleries by the roadside. Here, in you can find out more blistering heat, workers carried fire wood for the pot fires, sawed substantial aqui laria logs into pieces, and laid the wet chips out on sheets for drying.
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Later on that night we roamed around the cool and misty streets of Kam Keut listening to Communist news broadcasts from the corner loudspeakers. Chag naud informed me that aquilaria smuggling was a big problem here; lots of towns had actually matured around precious trees, not the other way around, as a way to protect them from both Lao and Vietnamese smugglers.
The following early morning we drove a couple of miles out into the countryside, through sublime forests filled with delicate, feathery aquilaria trees, and found a town that had actually certainly been developed around a few untouched trees. In the center of the hamlet was an odd sight: a huge, fenced-in tree with an indication that recognized it as coming from Agroforex, Chagnaud's business.
"I paid $5,000 for it," Chagnaud said. "I'm not going to suffice down, either. I'm protecting it for the villagers. We put a fence around it so the Viet smugglers would not dare touch it. This is how ridiculous it's become, the thirst for oud." "Undoubtedly," Ferrando stated later on, as we were strolling back to the truck, "of all the products that I sell, oud is the most mysterious to me.
