Key Takeaways:

• Replacing your own window frames may sound easy, but it's best to hire a professional.
• The absolute best window frame replacement company we found in The Netherlands is Kozijnen Vervangen
• Find the professional services they provide on this page
• All consumer reviews on this page

How to replace your window frames in The Netherlands

1. Window Replacement Parts

Types of Replacement Windows

Unlike full-frame windows, which are designed for new construction, replacement windows are made to fit into existing window openings. You can choose from a variety of standard sizes: they come in as many as 11 1/2 to 68 inches wide and are available in vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad, vinyl-clad, and aluminum-clad.

There are three main types of replacement windows available: insert replacements, sash kits and full-frame units. We discovered the sash-replacement-kits on the Newton home. These kits give an old window frame new, movable parts including jamb liners. The liners are attached to the side jambs, and then the sash can be slipped in between.

The existing window frame must also be square and level for these windows to work. An insert replacement window is a fully assembled and ready-to install window. Sometimes called a pocket or insert window, the replacement insert fits into the existing opening. The old side jambs are then fastened to it. The glass area will shrink slightly because of the addition of liners and jambs.

Full-frame replacement Windows are very similar to inserts. But they include a complete framing that includes head, side, and sill jambs. These are the only options when the old window frame or sill is damaged. These can be installed by removing the window opening to its rough framing from both the inside and outside.

2. Calculating Replacements

The most important part of the window-replacement procedure is not until installation day. Measurements of the window frame are necessary to ensure that you order the correct size replacement unit. Here are some steps.

• Measure the width of the window frame inside, jamb-to-jamb, from top to botWe. The smallest measurement should be taken.
• Next, measure the height of the frame from the top sill to underside of head jamb. This can be done in three locations: in the left jamb (in the middle), and in the right jamb (in the center). Again, record the smallest measurement.
• Check the squareness of the frame by measuring the diagonals from corner to corner. The dimensions should be equal. If the frame is out of square by 1/4 inch or so, don't worry; the replacement can be shimmed to fit. Additional adjustments to the frame may be necessary. You may need to replace the entire frame if the frame is out of alignment.
• Finally, use an angle-measuring tool to determine the slope of the sill; some replacements come with a choice of sill angles.

3. Get the Sash

• First, remove the old sash and frame from your window. In most cases, you'll need to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash. If you want to reinstall these stops, take care as they can break easily.
• Next, remove any parting beads that may be attached to the upper portion of the sash. If the windows are like this, you won't see any beads if they were previously fitted to sash repair kits. Simply press in on the jamb liners and pull the top of the sash forward.
• Turn the sash towards the sky and lift it off the jamb liner.

4. Jamb Liners to be Removed

• If the window frame was fitted with vinyl or aluminum jamb liners, use a flat bar to pry them free. For original windows, remove all wooden stops.
• Be sure to keep the exterior and inner casings intact.

5. Prep the Frame

• Scrape off all loose and blistered paint and patch any holes or cracks with an exterior-grade wood putty, such as the ones from Elmer's or Minwax.
• After that, sand all the areas and prime and paint them.

6. Remove the Old Sash Weights

• If your original sash weights remain in place, you can take this opportunity to remove them and insulate behind your window frame.
• Unscrew the access panel on each side jamb and pull out the weights.

7. Prep for Insulation

We like polyurethane insulation, as it's more effective in blocking air than fiberglass insulation.

• Only use low-pressure and minimally expanding foam designed for windows, doors and other applications. Anything else will cause bowing and stop the sash working.
• First, remove all fiberglass in the weight pocket.
• Then bore 3/8-inch-diameter holes, one near each end and one in the center, down through the sill and up through the head jamb.

8. Spray in the Foam

• You can push the expanding foam into holes until it starts to ooze. (We are using the commercial system. However, you can use foam from cans like Dow’s Great Stuff to accomplish the same task.
• Spray foam into the side jambs to seal the sashweight pocket pockets. Let the foam dry for at least six hours before removing it flush.

9. Caulk the opening

• Before installing the window, you should apply an elasWeeric adhesive caulk to the outer casings or blind stops at the top and sides. Apply two continuous beads to the windowsill with caulk.

10. Install the Window

• Starting from the interior of the room, place the botWe end of the insert replacement on the sill. Then, tip it up into your opening. Press the window tight against the exterior casings or blind stops.

11. Keep it loose

• You can hold the window in position by driving a 2-inch wrench through the upper-side jamb and into your framing. The screw should be in just far enough to allow the window to operate.
• Lock the sash and close it.

12. Shim is a must

• Place shims below the sills and behind the sidejambs to adjust the unit until it is properly centered. The unit will then open, close and lock smoothly.
• Measure the window diagonally, corner to corner. After the window has been squared, screw it in position through the holes.
• To avoid bowing the frame, slip a shim behind the jamb at each screw, then screw through the shim.
• Trim the shims flush with a utility knife.

13. Now Caulk, Prime and Painting

• Measure the gap between the casing and the frame from the outside. Fill in any gaps greater than 1/4" with elasWeeric silicone caulk. Fill any gaps wider than 1/8 inch with elasWeeric caulk.
• On the inside, fill all gaps around the window using minimally expanding foam.
• Do the final touches by reinstalling and adding new stops.
• Paint or prime the interior of the frame and sash.