Key Takeaways:

• Replacing your own window frames may sound easy, but it's better to hire a professional.
• The absolute best window frame replacement service we found in The Netherlands is Kozijnen Vervangen
• Find the professional services they deliver listed here
• See their consumer reviews here

How to replace your window frames in The Netherlands

1. Window Replacement Parts

Types of New Replacement Windows

Replacement windows can be fitted into existing windows unlike full-frame windows which are intended for new construction. They come in a wide range of sizes from as small as 11 1/2 inch to as large as 68 inch and can be ordered in wood or vinyl as well as fiberglass and vinyl-clad wooden.

There are three types to choose from when replacing windows: sash units, insert replacements, or full-frame units. Sash-replacement kits--what We found on the Newton house--give an old window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are secured to the window opening's side jambs. Next, the sash is slipped in between.

To make these work, your existing window frame must be square and level. Insert replacement windows consist of a fully assembled window with a secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is then fastened to the old side jambs. The glass area may be smaller because you are adding new jambs/liners.

Full-frame replacement Windows are very similar to inserts. But they include a complete framing that includes head, side, and sill jambs. These are the only option when the old window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install them, you will need to remove the window opening's rough framing both inside and out.

2. Calculating Replacements

The most important step in the window-replacement process happens long before installation day. It's when you measure the dimensions of the existing window frame to make sure you order a replacement unit that's the right size. Here's how to do it.

• Start by measuring the inside width of the old window frame, jamb to jamb, in three places: across the top, middle, and botWe. The smallest measurement should be taken.
• Next, measure how high the frame is from the top edge of the sill to below the head jamb. Do this in three places: the left jamb at the middle, the middle and the right. Again, record the smallest measurement.
• You can check the squareness by measuring diagonals from corner-to-corner. These dimensions should match. If the frame is out of square by 1/4 inch or so, don't worry; the replacement can be shimmed to fit. Any additional adjustments may be required to the frame. You may need to replace the entire frame if the frame is out of alignment.
• You can also use an angle-measuring instrument to determine the slope.

3. Take Out the Sash

• Remove the old sash from your window frame. To remove the lower section of the sash in most cases, you will need the wood stops inside the window frame to be removed. You should be very careful when reinstalling the stops. They break easily.
• Next, take out the parting beads to free the upper sash. Beads won't appear on windows with sash-replacement systems. Simply press the jamb liners into the windows and pull the top part of the sash forward.
• Then pivot one side of the sash upward to free it from the jamb liners.

4. Pry Off The Jamb Liners

• To remove vinyl or aluminum jambliners from the window frame, you can use a flatbar to pry them out. Remove any wooden stops that may remain from an original window.
• Leave the interior and exterior casings intact.

5. Prep the Frame

• Take off any paint that has become brittle and scraped. Then, use exterior-grade wood putty such as Minwax to fill in any cracks.
• After that, sand all the areas and prime and paint them.

6. Eliminate the old sash weights

• If the original sashweights are still in their place, use this opportunity to take them out of their pockets and insulate the frame behind the window.
• Unscrew the access panel on each side jamb and pull out the weights.

7. Prep for Insulation

We likes polyurethane foam, because it's more effective at blocking air than fiberglass insulation.

• Make sure to use only low-pressure, minimally expanding foam intended for windows and doors; anything else will bow the frames and keep the sash from working.
• First, remove any fiberglass from the weight pockets.
• Then bore 3/8-inch-diameter holes, one near each end and one in the center, down through the sill and up through the head jamb.

8. Spray in the Foam

• Once the foam is ooze-out, you can shoot it into the holes. (We uses a commercial machine, but you can also use foam from a container like Dow's Great Stuff.
• Spray foam into the side jambs to seal the sashweight pocket pockets. Allow excess foam to set for at least 6 hours. Once it has hardened, cut or break it flush before you replace the sashweight pocket panels.

9. Caulk The Opening

• Preparing to install the window, apply an oil-based caulk on the exterior casings. Apply two continuous beads to the windowsill with caulk.

10. Install the Window

• Start by working from the inside of the room. Place the insert replacement's botWe on the sill and then tip it into the opening. The window should be pressed against the blind stops or exterior casings.

11. Do not fasten it

• One 2-inch screw should be used to hold the window in place. It should be driven loosely through both the upper side jambs and into the framing. The screw should reach just enough to allow the glass to operate.
• Close the sash, and lock it.

12. Shim is a must

• Adjust the unit by inserting shims under the sill and behind the side jambs until it is centered in the space and opens, closes, and locks smoothly.
• Measure the window diagonally. Once you have squared the window, screw it in the predrilled holes.
• You can avoid bowing the frame by slipping a shim behind each screw. Then, screw through the shhim.
• Trim the shims flush with a utility knife.

13. Begin Caulk and Prime and Painting

• From the outside, measure the gaps between the window frame and the casing. Fill the gaps between the casing and window frame that are less then 1/4 inch wide with elasWeeric cement. Anything wider must first be stuffed with foam-rubber backer rod.
• On the inside, fill any gaps around the window with minimally expanding foam.
• Next, reinstall the stops and add new ones.
• Paint or prime the interior of the frame and sash.